DMC Stitch Guide

Uses: Outlining, straight and curved lines, stems for plants, filling if rows are stitched closely together. Creates a rope-like appearance.

- Work from left to right.
- Bring needle up at 1 and down at 2.
- Bring needle back up halfway between 1 and 2 at 3, just slightly above the first stitch.
- Be sure to keep thread below the needle.
- Continue stitching

Tip:

- Make smaller stitches for curved lines to maintain a rounded smooth look.

Uses: Outlining, straight and curved lines, filling if rows are stitched closely together.

- Work from top to bottom.

- Bring needle up at 1 and then reinsert needle in same hole, forming a loop.

- Bring needle up at 2 and pull thread to tighten loop until desired shape is achieved.

- Repeat multiple stitches to create a chain.

- To end the row make a small stitch over the last loop to hold it in place to secure thread on back.

Tip:

- It is important to keep your thread tension even to create a consistent looking chain.

Uses: Outlining shapes, straight and curvy lines, spirals, bold dimensional accents, decorative borders.

This stitch involves two threads: a thicker foundation thread, (also called the laid thread) and a thinner thread (called the couching thread).

- Bring foundation thread onto the front and place along the design line.

- Bring the couching thread up under the foundation thread and make a tiny stitch over the thread, going back into or very close to the entry hole.

- Continue making evenly spaced stitches over the foundation thread to anchor the foundation thread in place.

- To finish couching, bring the foundation thread onto the back and secure it.

- Secure couching thread on back.

Tips:

- Use a matching coloured thread for the couching stitches to blend in or a contrasting colour for a bolder look.

- Use DMC cotton Thread (1 strand) to couch down solid colour foundation threads and use one strand of DMC Light Effects Thread to couch down thicker metallic foundation threads.

Uses: Borders, decorative outlining.

- Stitch a line of Running Stitches.

- Bring the lacing thread up at 1 and lace it under the next running stitch.

- Continue lacing the thread up and down through the running stitches keeping the loops even.

- To finish the lacing, bring the lacing thread onto the back under the centre of the last stitch.

Tip:

- Use a blunt tip Tapestry needle for the lacing thread. This will help prevent you from piercing the fabric or the Running Stitch threads.

Uses: Decorative borders, foliage, plant stems

- Working from right to left, hold the working thread to the left of the starting point (or the last stitch).

- Insert the needle into the fabric above the working thread and bring the tip of the needle out just under the thread.

- Wrap the thread around the needle from left to right and pull the needle through the resulting loop.

Uses: Borders and filling if worked in adjacent rows.

To stitch a line:

- Stitching from left to right, bring needle up at 1, down at 2, then up at 3 and down at 4.

- Continue stitching across to end of line.

- Start back stitching from right to left, make crosses by bringing the needle up at 5 and down at 6. Continue until all crosses have been stitched.

Tip:

- Be sure to keep the top stitch on the cross the same direction throughout a project.

Uses: Filling in spaces

- Lay a groundwork of small, evenly spaced vertical stitches, alternating the placement of the stitches as shown in the diagram.

- Weave your thicker secondary thread through the network of stitches in rows.

- When starting from the right, thread the needle under the first vertical stitch, then bring tour needle through the vertical stitch to the lower right.  Next, thread your needle under the next vertical stitch to the upper right. Continue stitching in a zig-zag motion to the end of the row.

- Work the next row in the opposite direction.

Tip:

- Use an embroidery hoop to keep your tension even throughout, and don't pull too tightly when weaving your secondary thread through your vertical stitches.

Uses: Decorative border edges, seam embellishment, foliage and stems.

- Work vertically, from top to bottom.

- Bring needle up at 1 and back down to right at 2, leaving a loop on the front.

- Bring the needle back up at 3 and pull thread to shape loop as desired.

- Insert the needle to the right of 4 at 5, leaving a loop of thread on the front.

- Bring needle up at 6 and pull thread to shape loop.

- Take next stitch to the left and continue stitching.

- To finish, take a small stitch over the last loop.

Tip:

- Mark 4 parallel guidelines to create even width stitches (be sure to use a removable marker as the stitches won't fully cover the guidelines)

Uses: Stitch in a circle to create flowers, single stitches can be leaves.

Similar to the chain stitch, but the loops are “detached” instead of connecting.

- Come up at 1 and back down in the same hole or right next to point 1, forming a loop on the front side.

- Bring needle up at 2 and pull thread to shape loop into desired shape. Pulling tighter creates a straighter looking stitch, while a looser thread creates a more rounded loop.

Tip:

- Finish centre of flower with a cluster of French Knots.

Uses: Decorative dots, leaves, plants

The Bullion Knot is very similar to the French Knot, but you loop the thread around the needle more times, producing a worm of a knot that is inserted a slight distance from the needle’s original entry point.

- Make a back stitch, the length of the bullion knot required.

- Bring the needle out at 1, but do not bring it out all the way.

- Twist the thread around the needle point, as many times as is necessary to equal the length of the back stitch.

- Holding the left thumb on the coiled thread, turn the needle back to 1 and insert it in the same place. Pull the thread through until the bullion knot lies flat.

Uses: Use alone as decorative accents, or stitch close together to form lines and or fill in shapes.

- Bring needle up through fabric and wrap the thread up, over and behind the needle forming a figure 8 around the needle.

- Insert the tip of the needle back through the fabric, close to where it first came up, but not in the same hole. Pull the thread carefully until a knot is formed, then push the needle to the back and pull the thread through.

Tip:

- Use instead of a French knot if you want a slightly larger and higher knot.

Uses: Decorative accents, stars, flowers, in a row for a border, disperse randomly for loose filling or stitch close together for denser filling.

- Starting at the top, bring the needle up at 1 and down to the centre at 2.

- Bring the needle up at 3 and down to centre at 2.

- Continue stitching in a clockwise direction until you have 8 evenly placed stitches to create a star.

Tip:

- To create an eyelet effect, tighten the tension on each stitch to create an opening in the centre. This technique works well on evenweave fabrics.

Before you begin to knit you must make a foundation row called a cast on. The first stitch of any cast on method is a slip knot.

Step 1:
- Hold the yarn in your left hand approximately 40 cm (15 1/2”) from the end. Wrap the yarn around two fingers.

Step 2:
- Make a loop as shown.

Step 3:
- Slip the loop on to a needle and pull it tight.

There are several ways to cast on. This method gives a neat edge.

Step 1:
- Holding the needle with the slip knot in your left hand, insert the tip of the right hand needle through the slipknot (stitch) so the left needle is crossed over the right needle. Wrap the yarn around the right hand needle.

Step 2:

- Bring the tip of the right-hand needle under the left hand needle and ‘catch’ the loop on the left needle.

Step 3:

- Hold the needles side by side.

Step 4:

- Insert the tip of the left needle up the stitch on the right needle and release the right needle. You now have two stitches on the left needle. Repeat steps 1 to 4 until you have the correct number of stitches cast on.

Step 1:
- For your final row, knit the first two stitches. Using the tip of the left needle, lift the first stitch up and over the second stitch and the tip of the right needle. Now you will have only one stitch on your right needle. Knit one more stitch so you have two stitches on the right needle. Then repeat until you have one stitch left on the needle, remove needle.

Step 2:
- Cut the yarn leaving a tail and pass the cut end of the yarn back through the loop of the last stitch, pull the yarn tight.

When you are using purl stitch, the yarn is in front.

Step 1:
- Hold the needle with the stitches in your left hand and the empty needle in your right-hand. Insert the tip of the right needle into the first stitch upwards from back to front. The needles will be crossed right over left.

Step 2:
- With your right-hand pull the yarn to the front of your work then wrap the yarn around the right needle and between the needles back to the front of the needles.

Step 3:
- Bring the tip of the right needle under the left needle and catch the ‘loop’ on the way through to the back.

Step 4:
- Slide the stitch off the left needle and on to the right needle. Repeat steps 1 to 4 until all of the stitches are on the right-hand needle. Then transfer the needle back into your left hand ready for the next row.

- Instead of purling only one stitch at a time, purl two stitches together. Insert your right needle through the first two stitches on the left needle, then purl them together as a single stitch.

- Instead of purling only one stitch at a time, purl three stitches together. Insert the right needle through the next three stitches and purl them together as if they were a single stitch.

This is a simple way of joining a cast on and a cast-off edge together that gives a flat join.

Step 1:
- Place the right sides together, lining up to the two edges you want to join.

Step 2:
- Thread your sewing needle with a strand of yarn and secure it to the wrong side of the fabric.

Step 3:
- Insert your sewing needle through the first stitch of your first edge. Push it through both pieces so it comes out through the first stitch on the wrong side of the second edge.

Step 4:
- Move back to the first edge, so the yarn wraps around your seam. Insert your needle into the second stitch along the first edge. Push it through both pieces again so you are on the second edge once more.

Step 5:
- Move back to the first edge wrapping the seam and continue in this way until you have joined the whole seam.

Step 6:
- Turn your piece so the right side is facing outwards.

A simple stitch pattern where you alternate every knit and purl stitch on every row. For an odd number of stitches: knit one stitch, then purl one stitch, repeat to the end of the row, and knit the last stitch. Repeat this row. For Knit stitches, you’ll be working with the yarn behind the work. For Purl stitches, the yarn is in front of the work. Remember to always bring the yarn between the two needles when you need to move it between the front and the back.

Row 1: Knit. Row 2: Purl. Repeat these 2 rows.

- Row 1: Knit. Row 2: Purl. Repeat these 2 rows.

- Row 1: [Knit 1, purl 1] repeat instructions within [square brackets] until the end of the row. Row 2: Purl. Repeat these 2 rows.

The instructions below make a small bobble. Your pattern may require a different number of increased stitches and rows.

Step 1:

- To start, increase twice into the next stitch by knitting first into the front, then into the back and then into the front of the same stitch. (Creating three stitches where there was one originally).

Step 2:
- Turn your work and purl back over these 3 stitches.

Step 3:
- Turn your work again and knit 3 stitches.

Step 4:
- Turn your work again and purl 3 stitches.

Step 5:
- Turn your work once more, then work a central decrease across the 3 stitches by slipping the first two stitches knit wise. Knit one stitch. Then pass the two stitches you slipped over the one you just knitted. You have now completed your first bobble stitch.

Rib Stitch is a stretchy stitch pattern created by alternating between knit and purl stitches.

Step 1: Rib stitch with an even number of stitches

- With the yarn at the back, knit 1 stitch. Then bring the yarn forward, down between the needles. Purl 1 stitch. Take the yarn to the back, up between the needles. Continue alternating between knit and purl stitches to the end of the row, ending with a purl stitch. When you are working rib on an even number of stitches, every row is the same, starting with a knit stitch and ending with a purl stitch.

Step 2: Rib stitch with an odd number of stitches

- Repeat the following two rows. Row 1: With the yarn at the back, Knit 1 stitch. Bring the yarn forward, down between the needles and purl 1 stitch. Repeat these 2 stitches until you have 1 stitch left, knit the last stitch. Row 2: With the yarn at the front, Purl 1 stitch. Take the yarn to the back, up between the needles and knit 1 stitch. Repeat these 2 stitches until you have 1 stitch left, purl the last stitch.

Step 1:

- Insert the left-hand needle from front to back, under the horizontal strand of yarn that lies between the stitches and lift it onto the needle.

Step 2:

- Insert the right-hand needle down through the back of the loop on the left-hand needle, wrap the yarn around the needle and pull through.

Step 3:

- Slip the loop off the left-hand needle to complete the stitch.

- Seed stitch, also known as Moss stitch, is when a purl stitch is worked on a knit row, or a knit stitch is worked on a purl row to create a raised, horizontal bump on the right side of the work. The pattern instructions will indicate when to knit or purl on each row to produce the desired pattern or texture.

- Insert your crochet hook into the next stitch. Starting with the hook in front of the yarn, move the hook under and then over the yarn, so the yarn ends up looped around the shaft of the hook. Scoop up the yarn with the groove of your hook and pull it through both the stitch and the loop on your hook. You now have a single loop on your hook. You have worked one slip stitch.

Step 1: Make a chain of the number of stitches as required by the pattern. Join the chains into a ring with a slip stitch by inserting the hook into the first chain stitch worked and catch the yarn with the hook.

Step 2: Draw the yarn through the stitch and loop on hook, to make a ring.

To crochet into a ring you can either create a magic ring or create a ring of chain stitches. A ring of chain stitches will leave a hole in the middle of your crochet whereas a magic ring can be completely closed.

Step 1: Start by making the number of chains the pattern indicates.

Step 2: Join the chain into a circle with a slip stitch into the first chain.

Step 3: Then make three chains. This is the starting chain for the next round of treble crochets and counts as the first stitch.

Step 4: Now make the number of treble crochet stitches your pattern indicates into the centre of the ring and finish off by working a slip stitch into the top of the starting chain.

Step 1: With the hook in your right hand the work in your left, wrap the yarn over the hook in a clockwise direction. You may find it easier to move the hook rather than move the yarn.

Step 2: Now insert the hook into the second stitch along your work, under the two legs of the ‘v’.

Step 3: Wrap the yarn around the hook again and slowly pull the hook back through the ‘v’, catching the wrapped yarn as you go. You should now have 3 loops on your hook.

Step 4: Wrap the yarn around the hook once more. pull the hook and wrapped yarn through the first 2 loops. 

Step 5: You should now have 2 loops left on your hook. Wrap the yarn again.

Step 6: Pull the hook and the wrapped yarn through the two remaining loops on the hook. You will be left with 1 loop on the hook. This is one treble stitch.

Step 7: To continue, wrap the yarn around the hook and insert the hook into the next stitch of your row. Follow steps 3 to 5 to create your treble crochet stitches. 

Step 1: Position your work so that the wrong side is facing you. Thread your sewing needle with the tail end of yarn. 

Step 2: With your sewing needle travel across your work horizontally, going under the vertical ‘v’s.

Step 3: Once you have worked through a few stitches, drop down a row, turn around and travel back across your work in the same way.

Step 4: Do this until you feel the end is secure then remove your needle and cut off any remaining loose yarn.

Step 1: Work 1 treble crochet.

Step 2: Work another treble crochet into the same stitch. The two stitches together are shaped like a “V”.

This technique is used for starting off a circular piece and many amigurumi patterns. You start by making a loop with your yarn, and then create your first round of stitches by working into this loop.

Step 1: With the tail of the yarn in the palm of your left hand, form a loop of yarn around your index and middle fingers. The working yarn is now on the right.

Step 2: Hold the yarn tightly between your thumb and a finger at the point where the loop overlaps so it doesn’t come undone. Insert your crochet hook into the “magic loop” from front to back. Wrap the yarn around the hook and pull it through.

Step 3: Make one chain stitch.

Step 4: Insert your hook into the ring, wrap the yarn around the hook and pull it through. There are now two loops on your crochet hook. Wrap the yarn around the hook again and pull it through both loops. You have now made a Double Crochet stitch.

Step 5: Repeat step 4 until you have made the number of stitches indicated by your pattern.

Step 6: Join the round with a slip stitch. Pull on the tail end of your yarn to close the hole in the center of the work - magic!

Bobbles are made by working several open treble crochet stitches into the same stitch or chain space and then closing them together as one stitch.

Step 1: Begin to make a treble crochet - wrap the yarn around the hook and then insert the hook into the next stitch or space.

Step 2: Wrap the yarn around the hook and pull it through the stitch or space. There are now three loops on the hook.

Step 3: Wrap the yarn around the hook again and pull it through the first two loops on the hook. There are now two loops on the hook. Do not complete this stitch, instead return to step one to begin the next treble crochet in the same stitch or space.

Step 4: When you have made the number of open treble stitches specified in the pattern, you will have several loops on your hook, one for each of the treble crochets, plus the stitch you started with. Close them together by wrapping the yarn around the hook and pulling it through all the loops to complete the bobble.

Step 5:Close the loops together by wrapping the yarn around the hook and pulling it through all the loops to complete the bobble.

- This stitch is a taller version of double crochet stitch. It uses a turning chain of 2 stitches.

Step 1: Wrap the yarn around the hook and then insert the hook into the next stitch or space.

Step 2: Wrap the yarn around the hook and pull it through the stitch or space. There are now three loops on the hook.

Step 3: Wrap the yarn around the hook and pull it through all three loops on the hook to complete the stitch.

- Increase the number of stitches by working two of the same stitches into the next stitch or space, as indicated in the pattern. The steps below describe how to increase by working two half treble crochet stitches into the same stitch or space.

Step 1: Wrap the yarn around the hook, insert the hook into the next stitch or space, wrap the yarn around the hook and pull it through. There are now three loops on your hook.

Step 2: Wrap the yarn around the hook again and pull it through all three stitches. You have now completed one half treble crochet.

Step 3: Repeat steps 1 and 2 to make another half treble crochet in the same stitch or space.

Step 1: Fold your yarn in half, creating a loop in the center. Place your dowelling on top of the yarn, just above the loop.

Step 2: Take both ends of the yarn and wrap them over the dowelling and then down through the loop.

Step 3: Pull on the yarn ends to tighten the knot around the dowelling.

Step 1: Fold the working strand in half and place the central loop over the middle strands (on top). The folded portion should be forward, and the ends heading towards the back of the board.

Step 2: Bring the two halves towards you, passing under the middle strand and over the folded area of the working strand.

Step 3: Pull them firmly to tighten the knot.

Step 1: Bring A from right to left, over the middle strands and under B.

Step 2: Now bring B under the 2 middle strands and through the loop formed by A. Pull on both A and B to tighten them.

Step 3: Bring A from left to right, over the middle strands and under B.

Step 4: Bring B under the 2 middle strands and through the new loop formed by A. Pull on A and B again to tighten them – you have now made one square knot.

- The diagonal double half hitch can be used to make diamond and V shapes, as well as zigzags, “s”, chevrons, leaf shapes, and other designs. Place a holding cord to the left of the set and secure it on a diagonal slant. Make sure you stretch it so the cord is tight.

Step 1 - From left to right: Move the first working cord over and under the holding cord, in a counterclockwise direction. As you pull it left, it should pass over itself. Tighten the knot firmly, making sure the secured section of the holding cord is straight. This is a half hitch.

Step 2: Tie the second half hitch with cord 1, placing it to the right of and below the first knot. Nb; Steps 1 and 2 = Double half hitch.

Step 3: Repeat steps 1 & 2, tying the next diagonal half hitch with working cord 2.

Step 4: Repeat steps 1 & 2, attaching cords 3-6 to the holding cord.

Step 5: – From right to left: Move the holding cord towards the left, placing it on top of the working cords. Attach cord 6 to it with a clockwise double half hitch, so the end of the cord is pointing right when you finish.

Step 6. Attach cords 5-1 to the holding cord with a double half hitch. Make sure the segments between the two rows of knots are straight.

Step 1: Lay A horizontally. Lay B vertically underneath A so that a cross shape is formed.

Step 2: Pass B over A and then back under A, to the left of where the pieces intersect.

- Make a first row of square knots by grouping the cords in 4. Make a square knot in the next row, alternating the knots. Leave (do not work) the first 2 cords of the left side knot, and the other 2 cords of the right side.

Step 1: Push the punch needle all the way through the fabric until the handle is touching the fabric leaving about a 4cm tail of yarn.

Step 2: Pull up slowly just enough that the point of the needle skims the surface of the fabric. Skim the needle across the length of your stitch and punch down again.

Step 3: Continue until you have outlined your shape then fill in the centre using the same technique. If you need to turn the fabric, turn it whilst the needle is in the fabric.

Step 4: If you flip your work over you can see the other side is loopy. Choose whichever effect you prefer to be the front of your work.